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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 8:49 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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I wonder if the cam/crank position sensor is working when its cold?

crank sensor is down behind the alternator. FSM should have ohm values at different temps.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 10:39 pm Reply with quote
*darcy*
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came across this, and seems like it is pretty logical.

Quote:
With a high mileage motor it could very well be that the timing chain is stretched, or the tensioner is worn, allowing the cam and crank to be just on the edge of spec. With a stretched chain the marks will still line up, but the motor is not timed. This is why timing chains/belts must be replaced by mileage, not by inspection. They can look fine, but there is no way to tell if it has stretched just by looking at it. When you rev up the motor the cams catch up to the crank, and the motor runs.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1470792-post11.html


yall please talk colin into replacing the timing chain - he needs (280k!!!!) to but thinks it's better to wait until it breaks before he replaces it. Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 8:17 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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I would put a timing light on it. See what it reads. Jimmy has told me that he has NEVER sold a timing set for either the 2rz or 3rz.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 9:06 am Reply with quote
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Nope. Never seen one wear out.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 5:35 pm Reply with quote
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well, he was late to work today because it took too long to start the dang truck.

Evil or Very Mad


and its super annoying to listen to it crank for 10-15 minutes early in the morning.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 9:25 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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put a block heater in it.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:10 am Reply with quote
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Can he spray carb or brake cleaner in the intake and make it start? That'd narrow it down to a fuel problem.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:27 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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5keepers wrote:
Can he spray carb or brake cleaner in the intake and make it start? That'd narrow it down to a fuel problem.



She said there was a strong fuel smell when it has been cranking for long periods. I would assume that means its getting fuel, maybe not at the right time, but its there.

Wonder what lots and lots of fuel is doing to the O2 sensors and cat? How far a drive does Colin have? Hope its long enough to burn all that extra fuel off in the exhaust.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 12:05 am Reply with quote
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hello friends - got a question of the day for ya -

I'm getting ready to install this power lock / keyless entry system on to the little 4runner.

the keyless system has an auxiliary button, which normally could be used for remote start (or really whatever you want I guess?) - anyway, it is a 'constant signal' so it keeps sending the signal until you release the button...

My question is, do you think this could be wired to roll down the rear window? The window relay module is located in the panel behind the drivers seat, so I could easily connect the keyless system to the rear window wiring right there in the front of the truck.

All I would have to do is connect the aux wire to the correct window control wire, right? no extras needed?

1st Gen. Rear Window Relay

Function Wire Pin #
Window Motor - 2 L/B 1
Window Limit Switch R/W 2
Window Motor - 1 L/Y 3
Blank pin n/c n/c
Dash/Window Down G/Y 4
Dash/Window Up R/Y 5
Battery/+12VDC L 6
To - Washer Switch L 7
Engine/+12VDC R 8
To - Wiper Relay L/R 9
Ground W/B 10
Back/Window Down L/W 11
Back/Window Up L/B 12
Wiper Retracted G/Y 13
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 2:32 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Im trying to remember the wiring from my 4runner.. its been 3 years or so since I last really looked at it.

With that said, I really think that would work. In my mind I think that if you could find the wire that powers the window down and give it power it should go down so long as all 50-11 thousand safety switches are working. It doesnt matter where the power comes from.

I think the motor needs 12 volts to work, what does the keyless entry AUX circuit put out? Also will it handle the amp draw from the motor? I have no idea what sort of amps the rear window motor pulls, but mine was probably pushing the limits because it was always struggling to push the window up.. that and it was 22-23 years old at the time...

Anyway, its late, my brain hurts from thinking.. best of luck...

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 9:58 pm Reply with quote
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I think if you splice the aux circut wire into the power down wire from the key at the tailgate it should work. IIRC, the dash switch needs the key turned to aux to work. I dont think the amp draw will be much from the wireless because of the relay in the control box.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:06 am Reply with quote
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lets talk about the tacoma again ...

we replaced the brushes in the starter and put it back in sunday night and the whole thing did not work ... so we put in a parts store starter and while the starter works, the truck is no better at turning over.

in all honestly, you would think that it was starved for gas, except for the strong gas smell from the truck when its cranking ...

give some direction, i'm lost and tired of listening to it struggle to start every morning!
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:29 am Reply with quote
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*darcy* wrote:
lets talk about the tacoma again ...

we replaced the brushes in the starter and put it back in sunday night and the whole thing did not work ... so we put in a parts store starter and while the starter works, the truck is no better at turning over.

in all honestly, you would think that it was starved for gas, except for the strong gas smell from the truck when its cranking ...

give some direction, i'm lost and tired of listening to it struggle to start every morning!


On the NB someone mentions the Coolant temp sensor. has he checked that?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:46 am Reply with quote
sgtbriangreen
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Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
*darcy* wrote:
lets talk about the tacoma again ...

we replaced the brushes in the starter and put it back in sunday night and the whole thing did not work ... so we put in a parts store starter and while the starter works, the truck is no better at turning over.

in all honestly, you would think that it was starved for gas, except for the strong gas smell from the truck when its cranking ...

give some direction, i'm lost and tired of listening to it struggle to start every morning!


On the NB someone mentions the Coolant temp sensor. has he checked that?


That is what I changed out at Tanzania.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:54 am Reply with quote
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Remind me again, once it starts it is good to go all day? Does it have the same issue in the afternoon? I know that you guys are sick of this so let me do some checking with the guys I know and I will post back. No codes right?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:02 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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sgtbriangreen wrote:
Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
*darcy* wrote:
lets talk about the tacoma again ...

we replaced the brushes in the starter and put it back in sunday night and the whole thing did not work ... so we put in a parts store starter and while the starter works, the truck is no better at turning over.

in all honestly, you would think that it was starved for gas, except for the strong gas smell from the truck when its cranking ...

give some direction, i'm lost and tired of listening to it struggle to start every morning!


On the NB someone mentions the Coolant temp sensor. has he checked that?


That is what I changed out at Tanzania.


The one on the back of the head? that sucks.. Yea, I have no idea..

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:11 pm Reply with quote
sgtbriangreen
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Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
sgtbriangreen wrote:
Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
*darcy* wrote:
lets talk about the tacoma again ...

we replaced the brushes in the starter and put it back in sunday night and the whole thing did not work ... so we put in a parts store starter and while the starter works, the truck is no better at turning over.

in all honestly, you would think that it was starved for gas, except for the strong gas smell from the truck when its cranking ...

give some direction, i'm lost and tired of listening to it struggle to start every morning!


On the NB someone mentions the Coolant temp sensor. has he checked that?


That is what I changed out at Tanzania.


The one on the back of the head? that sucks.. Yea, I have no idea..


Yeah, it sucked. I had to sit on the intake to get my hand bent around all back asswards to get to it.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:11 pm Reply with quote
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Sleepy wrote:
Remind me again, once it starts it is good to go all day? Does it have the same issue in the afternoon? I know that you guys are sick of this so let me do some checking with the guys I know and I will post back. No codes right?


once it starts it runs like a champ ... but when it sits all day for 10 hours while colin is working, it will be hard to start again ...

it is 100% WORSE when the outside temp is cold... it still takes longer than normal when its warmer - we put a space heater in the garage to see if it would help, and it still was a bad start.

It hardly turns over, then stumbles to cut off unless you give it gas constantly until it finally gets to a higher rpm.. almost like it is starved for gas, yet we can smell a very strong raw gas odor when it is attempting to start.


we have replaced the injectors, starter, coolant temp sensor (on the back of the engine), plugs and wires are good. compression had one (#3?) cylinder lower than the others, but were 'ok' as far as i can tell.

BUT, like i said, once it is running, it runs like a champ, no other symptoms.

also, its worth mentioning that when his stock starter began to fail, it would make like a 'winding up noise' and strangely enough it would actually start better then. -- until the start just completely quit working.

not sure what to check next.

codes for random misfire and one other related to exhaust i think?
i will have to check with colin when i get home.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:02 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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*darcy* wrote:
Sleepy wrote:
Remind me again, once it starts it is good to go all day? Does it have the same issue in the afternoon? I know that you guys are sick of this so let me do some checking with the guys I know and I will post back. No codes right?


once it starts it runs like a champ ... but when it sits all day for 10 hours while colin is working, it will be hard to start again ...

it is 100% WORSE when the outside temp is cold... it still takes longer than normal when its warmer - we put a space heater in the garage to see if it would help, and it still was a bad start.

It hardly turns over, then stumbles to cut off unless you give it gas constantly until it finally gets to a higher rpm.. almost like it is starved for gas, yet we can smell a very strong raw gas odor when it is attempting to start.


we have replaced the injectors, starter, coolant temp sensor (on the back of the engine), plugs and wires are good. compression had one (#3?) cylinder lower than the others, but were 'ok' as far as i can tell.

BUT, like i said, once it is running, it runs like a champ, no other symptoms.

also, its worth mentioning that when his stock starter began to fail, it would make like a 'winding up noise' and strangely enough it would actually start better then. -- until the start just completely quit working.

not sure what to check next.

codes for random misfire and one other related to exhaust i think?
i will have to check with colin when i get home.


I wouldnt be suprized to see codes start to pop up from all the fuel being dumped into the exhaust. Im sure the cat an o2 sensors like that as much as my dog like staying in the crate.....

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:21 pm Reply with quote
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Yotaoffroad27 wrote:


I wouldnt be suprized to see codes start to pop up from all the fuel being dumped into the exhaust. Im sure the cat an o2 sensors like that as much as my dog like staying in the crate.....


that reminds me, we have a cat ready to replace, should be done soon now that we actually have a garage to work on things.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:25 pm Reply with quote
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*darcy* wrote:
Yotaoffroad27 wrote:


I wouldnt be suprized to see codes start to pop up from all the fuel being dumped into the exhaust. Im sure the cat an o2 sensors like that as much as my dog like staying in the crate.....


that reminds me, we have a cat ready to replace, should be done soon now that we actually have a garage to work on things.


I wouldnt replace the cat until you fix the current issue. Raw fuel kills cats. (pun intended)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:42 pm Reply with quote
*darcy*
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well, i was wondering if back pressure (or a lack of) might be part of the problem? since the engine isn't 'breathing' properly with the broken one on there?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 2:22 pm Reply with quote
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*darcy* wrote:
well, i was wondering if back pressure (or a lack of) might be part of the problem? since the engine isn't 'breathing' properly with the broken one on there?


My cat is gutted and runs great.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 2:43 pm Reply with quote
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lol, yeah, i'm just grasping at straws trying to figure out what it could be ... have yet to find an exact example online of someone else having the same problems...

any other suggestions on where to start .. other than just throwing parts at it Sad
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:32 am Reply with quote
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It sounds almost like there is an issue with it bleeding off fuel pressure while the truck is sitting. I would get it started and let it run for a little bit. Then check the pressure at the rail since there should be a schrader valve or banjo fitting to hook a gauge to. Let the truck sit overnight and then hook the gauge up again in the morning and see if there is a noticeable difference from where it was the night before.

Only thing I could think is that if Colin's truck has a fuel pump that has a check valve in it that the check valve has failed and its allowing it to bleed down overnight.

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