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Project Taco
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:04 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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I have had this truck since I was 16. When I 1st got it in 04 it only had 24K on it. Since then I have logged 104k behind its wheel. I love this truck and one day I want make it the project truck.



And like most High school kids I LOVED MUD....



A few specs for this thing:

99 Toyota Tacoma
3rz K&N Intake LC Engineering header and magnaflow duals
Auto
3" revtech spacer lift + 3" body.
33x12.50R15s
4.56 gears open/open

Besides my cheap-o high school lift the mods on my truck have been few and far.... Until now.

As of last weekend I started the LONG drawn out ever changing process on this truck.

I always hated the Auto, to me a "true" toyota 4x4 is always a stick.. well last weekend I set out to change that. I have been working with a few poeple on the National board to collect data and all the parts I needed for the swap.

The Part list includes.

Trans/t-case, pedals (brake and clutch), clutch master, x-member mods, drive shafts mods, and so on. I am mostly done with the swap, although I am missing a few small peaces. I have drivin it and it great! I still need to work out the shifter placment, beings I have a BL.

Before:



A340F and the W59


Even the Tacoma's have forward shift and top shift t-cases. The 4cyl auto is the only one that uses the forward shift Confused


The chain drive Taco case split open (rear half)


The cable drive VSS and Electrical VSS



Also the different stems on the VSS (long one being the cable drive)


For those of you who dont know, A&W builds transmissions for Toyota. They have a plant right here in Creedmoore NC (A&W North Carolina)


The A340F is longer than the W59 by about 3 inches, thus throwing off your drive shafts




I hope to one day have a Nice all Toyota rig here. Lots of time and money still to come and go before its on the hard trails..

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 9:53 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Well as stated in "Black Beauty's" thread, My Tacoma has been looking coolant. I noticed it back In the fall. I was headed home from a friends house with my trailer. Its about a 20min. ride. About 5miles from my road I noticed my temp gauge going up, and down. It was moving rather fast, alot faster than I have ever seen the gauge move before. It would go from dead center of the gauge to fully pegged in the red. This was the 1st time I have EVER seen my Tacoma do anything funny like that. The next morning I popped the hood and saw there was NO coolant visible in the radiator and the resi. Since then I have tryed to keep a hawks eye on coolant level, and to see if I could see a leak.

I found that the Driver side floor/carpet soaked, however it didnt smell like coolant. It was not colored, nor did it have a smell, besides a moldy smell. The heater core is located over the Passenger side floor board. So is the A/C drain. The passenger side floor is dry. Jimmy recommended for me to check under the cowling (?). maybe one of the seams is leaking. That does not worry me half as much as the missing coolant.

I found that one of the clamps on one of the hoses running to the heater core was not tight anymore. I replaced it with one of the Auto Zone clamps and I no longer see the coolant drip on the bell housing. With 131,000 on the clock, I dont see how the Head Gasket is leaking. I drove 3hrs from Mooresville NC to Oxford NC, When I started the radiator was full and the coolant was right at the "full" mark on the resi. When I pulled in my drive way, the coolant was half way the "Full" and "Min" marks. I would say thats a BIG leak. I dont smell any coolant in the exhaust (not that I have the best nose), nor is there any extra white smoke.

IF YOU DONT WANT TO READ ALL THE BACK STORY, THIS IS THE MAIN QUESTION. IS THERE A DYE I CAN PUT IN THE COOLANT, THEN USE A BLACK LIGHT TO TRACK THE LEAK DOWN?


If anyone has ANY ideas as to where the problem is, I am willing to dig and look. I dont want to build 2 motors this year, (although Robert would be the man to do it)


Last edited by Yotaoffroad27 on Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:26 pm; edited 1 time in total

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:24 pm Reply with quote
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This thread sucks. Delete. Start over.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:51 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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You must be this tall to ride this ride -----> --------- __________ <-you just missed out... Sad

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:04 pm Reply with quote
MetalMangler
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Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
You must be this tall to ride this ride -----> --------- __________ <-you just missed out... Sad

Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 7:35 pm Reply with quote
sgtbriangreen
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Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
You must be this tall to ride this ride -----> --------- __________ <-you just missed out... Sad


Ouch. X2 what Shawn said.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:54 am Reply with quote
DAWGTOY
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yea ya midget.

best giggle i've had in a while.
great comeback daylon.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 9:22 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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I pulled the heater core out of the Tacoma today/night. Whats a PITA, 99.8% of the dash had to come out. I was able to keep the A/C lines hooked up, and leave that part of the box in the truck. It takes 2.5 seconds to get the core out of the heater box once the box is out. The core is in great shape. I don't see any leaks, and nothing showing where any coolant has been leaking. I hope I can get that dash back together tomorrow Sad


I also checked under the cowl to see if any of the body seams where not sealed and leaking. I dont see anything that looks like it may be leaking. I dumped a bunch of water into the open area where the seems are and looked for leaking water. I saw nothing. back to the drawing board.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 12:43 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Ever thought to yourself, "what have I gotten myself into?"......



...nahhh me either.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 9:08 am Reply with quote
DAWGTOY
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props to ya daylon for gettin into a job such as that.
not everyone would give it a shot.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 9:58 am Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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Heater core?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:51 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Yea I wanted to be 100% sure it was not the heater core that way I could move my mind to other sources. It was NOT the heater core. It was fun pulling my truck apart! I had it all back together in 2hrs on sunday afternoon. I even found that my truck has a low fuel light. All I have to do is run one wire to make it work. Everything else for it was already there. I think the water was leaking in via the grommet for the throttle cable. I could see where some muddy water had dryed running from there. I used some black RTV to seal it and the gromment for the heater valve cable.

I also got rid of the factory clamps going to the heater core and replaced them with the Auto Zone kind. I hope those where the problem... Im praying BOTH leaks will go away...


Last edited by Yotaoffroad27 on Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:46 am; edited 1 time in total

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:36 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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I got alittle bored today, so I did the "turn signal mod". You move you turn signal bulb from the bumper up to the corn/marker light. This takes some light work.









Once the hole is cut and the slots are in, the factory bulb and harness goes right in. The harness has the needed wire to reach the corner light with out being modded. I was worried that the marker light would mask the turn signal flash. The larger bulb of the turn signal is more than enough to be seen CLEARLY over the smaller and dimmer marker light.

My plan is to find some sort of a Fog light to go in the bumper where the turn signal was.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:57 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Front Diff Lock????


Very Happy

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 6:35 am Reply with quote
Sleepy
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Yotaoffroad27 wrote:

Front Diff Lock????
Very Happy


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:21 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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that my button too sleepy Very Happy

Ill share my long term plan with you:

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116746

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:35 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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I have been playing with the light positioning. If you are familiar with the Tacoma Cluster, and light location, you will see that Some of the lights have been moved. Note the location of the CEL in now on the far left. That was the RR DIFF LOCK light was. The RR DIFF LOCK button is now on the far right. To the left of it will be the FR DIFF LOCK, and to the left of that will be the 4WD light. In the thread I linked above you can see that he left the the RR DIFF button in the factory location and had the FR DIFF button is all the way to the right. I Wanted all my 4x4 lights in one space.

I dont have another Diff button, or diff lock light cover yet. so this is all I have. I was able to use the pins from my old unused ECT PWR button. simply removed the pins from the old plug, and put them in the Diff lock plug. It works perfect!! (yes.. I know the 4x4 light is upside down.. its custom!!)







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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:23 am Reply with quote
DAWGTOY
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damn dalan thats impressive.
thats the kind of work just anybody can't or won't do.
i like it---makes your rig more one of a kind.

keep it up kido.


puppymaster

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:27 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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thanks Robert. My Tacoma is my Hobby, the 4runner is what I do to kill time between projects on the Tacoma.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:10 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Finished product. In direct light you can tell its not factory, but how often do you really look that close?? in the dark it perfect!!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:15 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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Sorry, but "perfect" would be actually HAVING front and rear diff lock, not just the lights Laughing

But i guess your dash is ready if you ever do get them Very Happy


Just messin, looks good man.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:18 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Cumminsdzl wrote:
Sorry, but "perfect" would be actually HAVING front and rear diff lock, not just the lights Laughing

But i guess your dash is ready if you ever do get them Very Happy


Just messin, looks good man.



DOHHHH!! your right... I do need the lockers Sad


Thanks carl

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:25 am Reply with quote
got cope?
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Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
I even found that my truck has a low fuel light. All I have to do is run one wire to make it work. Everything else for it was already there.


How would one go about finding out if their truck has this? Where do I look?
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:25 am Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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got cope? wrote:
Yotaoffroad27 wrote:
I even found that my truck has a low fuel light. All I have to do is run one wire to make it work. Everything else for it was already there.


How would one go about finding out if their truck has this? Where do I look?


There is a plug under ther drivers seat, under the carpet. Your looking for a Y-B wire. There is a larger W-B wire in the slot on the corner next to the Y-B. On my truck the Y-B wire runs from the pump to this plug. The pin leaving this plug is empty. I got some pins from a wrecked taco. I put a bulb in the slot for the fuel light, but I am not sure if the pump is the right one or not. My truck is near bout empty but the light doesnt come on. I can touch the lead from the cluster to ground and the light comes on (This cuircut is ground controlled). I have a bad feeling that my truck doesnt have the right fuel pump/sending unit. I havent messed around with it too much. I have been trying to get my 4runner ready for harlan. I will be working more on it soon.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:15 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Just a little update for Colin. I dropped the tank, and check to see what I could find. The top plate part that bolts into the tank is used in alot of applications. It has all the pins in it. But once its pulled up, you will see that there is a plug, plugging into the ""top plate"". The pin that runs the fuel light is empty. Sad I assume if you could find a 4runner with a fuel light, or even a Tacoma with the right Fuel sending unit, you could make it work pretty easy. It took all of 15 mins to drop the tank. Make sure you hook the vent, and return hoses up right... If you dont, you will know.. trust me... Very Happy

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