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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:10 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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This ole pile has been sitting in the garage since we got home from Tanzania and has been leaking 90 weight the whole time. I had a bucket up under it and finally decided tonight to figure out what was leaking. Usually its one of my tcase drain plugs that like to loosen up, so i expected a 10 minute fix including dropping the skid plate. As i was loosening the skid plate bolts i noticed the front driveshaft yoke had been rubbing on the skid, which isnt normal. I grabbed the driveshaft and it was seriously loose, not the bolts though, the whole front output can move up and down side to side a good half inch....Im sure the bearing there is trashed from years of putting up with a square driveshaft shaking and beating the bearing into submission. Of course the seal around the flopping output is shot, so thats where the 90 weight is coming from.

So, now what to do? Replace just that bearing? Get another tcase and swap in my 23 spline input shaft out of my current rear case? Of course the bolts that hold my budbuilt crossmember on are so chewed up that no wrench in the world will grab them, so dropping the crossmember just got a lot more fun.

Any good ideas? Anybody want to buy a used up old Toyota that is in need of some TLC? Its cheap, i promise.....

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:39 pm Reply with quote
5keepers
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Tear down the case and fix it.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:55 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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I know thats what needs to be done, just have no motivation to make it happen. I've just gotten so bored with it over the last year or so....

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 6:58 am Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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Now that i think about it, I'm pretty sure that you can split the case with it still mounted to my crossmember, as long as there is room around the trans hump to get to the bolts. That should make it easier, that crossmember could be a real pain if i have to drop it, i would have to cut off all the bolts and weld it back on i guess.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:49 am Reply with quote
StretchASU
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Totally feel ya on the whole not wanting to mess with the crossmember/cases.

A RZR is looking better and better every time I work on my pile.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 11:57 am Reply with quote
DAWGTOY
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kyle would it be any easyer to just drop in another transfercase.

iv'e got a couple cases to spare. how bad is it leaking?
fill it up and run it anyway?

hollar at me if i can help.

weld nuts to the old bolt heads and wrench em out.
(crossmember bolts)
what iv'e found the hardest to get out is the allenhead
bolts that hold on the skidplate. so the old welder comes out
to weld on some nutz. works like a charm. i guess the
heat from welding helps loosen em up. them little suckers
can be a pain.



dawg

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:32 pm Reply with quote
DAWGTOY
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kyle let me look at a couple torn down cases i got.
you may be able to change this out without pulling
the case. if so i'll bring the parts with me and
we'll change it out on the trailer.



dawg

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 2:48 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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DAWGTOY wrote:
kyle let me look at a couple torn down cases i got.
you may be able to change this out without pulling
the case. if so i'll bring the parts with me and
we'll change it out on the trailer.



dawg



Robert thanks for the offer man, but im not going to be able to make harlan anyway. Work has continued to be in the way of me wheeling so many times in the last year. Things are looking up though, im in the process of training an assistant to help me, but he is out of work for the next two weeks for surgery on his elbow, and the other person that can back me up when im gone is due to have his second child any day now, just not in the cards for me right now. I had been meaning to post up and let yall know that i wouldnt be there, just hadnt done it.

It leaks crazy bad, and the shaft moves around a LOT. Im surprised it hasnt broken anything flopping around like that, but it must have just happened at Tanzania. I believe you can remove the front output flange nut, take out the 4 bolts around that shaft that hold on a little small output housing. THen take off the 14 on the back side, split the case and slide the front output out the back. The shaft is all one peice i think, and i believe the bearing just rides on that shaft up near the output end.

The problem with the crossmember bolts is they screw up into the frame into the nuts that are welded inside the boxed frame. Those nuts inside the frame are broken loose so when you turn the bolts, everything just spins. Its not a huge deal, and nothing a few minutes with a cutoff wheel cant handle. Its just a pain in the butt. I'll get it pulled apart in the next few weeks and get it going. Just was kinda pissed last night when i thought i had a 5 minute fix.

Still hoping to fix it under the truck, but even if i can't its no big deal, ill get her done. Thanks again for the help, and if you have a broken apart case take a look at it and see if my theory about fixing it in the truck looks possible. I still might end up needing a case though, the way that output is flopping, it might have cracked the case, just cant see well enough to know right now.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 7:49 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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hmmmm, so i feel a little dumb. I've had this truck for 8 years and feel like i can work on most of its problems without much trouble....but today, Mr Shawn Groce fixed it over the telephone. I was asking his opinion on removing the front output shaft and he suggested i just tighten the nut that holds the output flange on Rolling Eyes I thought about it being loose last night, but didnt think it could cause that much play and that bad of a leak....turns out it can. Took out the driveshaft bolts and the flange nut was held on by about 2 threads Rolling Eyes

The funny thing is, i remember having this problem about 5 years ago and it was the same thing. Feeling like a stupid newbie rookie right now, but at least its fixed Very Happy Rolling Eyes

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:04 pm Reply with quote
StretchASU
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Laughing Damn straight.

Gonna miss ya at Harlan buddy. Won't be the same without the ol Race Carl instigating some main trail bombing.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 9:30 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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StretchASU wrote:
Laughing Damn straight.

Gonna miss ya at Harlan buddy. Won't be the same without the ol Race Carl instigating some main trail bombing.


Gimmie a few months to get this assistant capable of assisting and its game on again. You are not going to hear me complain about being busy at work, its a blessing and I am thankful to have a great job that lets me make money and make money for the company, but im ready for some real time off. I really want to make a trip to Windrock this year, just ready for something i havent seen before.

Yall have fun.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:12 am Reply with quote
DAWGTOY
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kyle i'm glad thats all it was--- quick fix.
and with things like they are in the world a person with a job
needs to be focused like you seem to be. work that thang.
it'll pay off in the end for ya.

a trip to windrock sounds good. lets get some planning done.

we'll miss ya at harlan. see ya next time.



dawg

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 5:31 am Reply with quote
MetalMangler
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I found this and thought of you buddy!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:22 pm Reply with quote
Nitewulf
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A.) I about pissed myself laughing at the ninja turtle.
B.) Gonna pull my main driveshaft to the rear as it has some play in it as well. It doesnt leak trans fluid, but don't want it to start. If it isnt the torque of the nut, maybe it it just wear on the splines. Good reading anyway.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:54 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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So, i need to work on my brakes, its not a super big deal, but i would enjoy not having to do a triple pump every time i stop. I know some of yall have put in rear discs, and jimmy has swapped 17 different brake setups to get his right.

Front brakes work fine after a few pumps. Rear brakes are working at MAYBE 5%. Still have lspv, but the rod is taken off and the little linkage tied up, so that should equal the most power the rear brakes can get.

So, do i need a new master cylinder for the pumping issue?

Do i need to just rebuild the rear drums, or is a disc setup easy?

Thinking about a line lock too to use as an emergency brake.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 4:15 pm Reply with quote
sgtbriangreen
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I dont think a line lock will do any good if the brakes require pumping to hold. Once you get the problem solved, then a line lock would be good. Of course, the double low 1st gear park brake works good too.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 4:38 pm Reply with quote
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My remedy was a Land Cruiser booster and master cylinder. 92-97 bolted right up. I removed the lspv completely and added an adjustable proportioning valve right there. Rear discs are easy, but expensive. I replaced my rear shoes and wheel cylinders for less that $30. I got a prop valve from Ebay for cheap. Scored the booster/cyl at LKQ for ~$60 I think. It moves twice the fluid and pressure as our stock stuff. My brakes are awesome. The only things were the "elbow" junction that led to my rear was a 3 way due to the return metal line running from rear to front. I snagged a plain elbow one while I was at LKQ. I have pics and links on my work computer. Also the booster had to be bolted to the firewall upside down. That's it.

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DAWGTOY wrote:
We need healthy gals in our sport. (hookin winch lines and makin sammiches)


DAWGTOY wrote:
what ever you do don't google KY wrestlin match.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:36 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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sgtbriangreen wrote:
I dont think a line lock will do any good if the brakes require pumping to hold. Once you get the problem solved, then a line lock would be good. Of course, the double low 1st gear park brake works good too.



Oh yeah, i know the line lock is for once things are working right, come on Brian, this aint my first rodeo Laughing

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 5:22 am Reply with quote
MetalMangler
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Maybe you just need stronger ankles, capable of puting more force on the pedal. Very Happy

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:40 am Reply with quote
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MetalMangler wrote:
Maybe you just need stronger ankles, capable of puting more force on the pedal. Very Happy



His knees are strong as all Heck !!!

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DAWGTOY wrote:
We need healthy gals in our sport. (hookin winch lines and makin sammiches)


DAWGTOY wrote:
what ever you do don't google KY wrestlin match.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:56 am Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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MetalMangler wrote:
Maybe you just need stronger ankles, capable of puting more force on the pedal. Very Happy



This is very possible, my 21 month old son's ankles are basically the same size as mine....

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 3:43 pm Reply with quote
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http://www.4x4spot.com/proportioning.htm

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281059

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452546

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DAWGTOY wrote:
We need healthy gals in our sport. (hookin winch lines and makin sammiches)


DAWGTOY wrote:
what ever you do don't google KY wrestlin match.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:06 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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Thanks Jimmy, reading up and figuring out what i want to do now.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 1:35 pm Reply with quote
Cumminsdzl
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Figured out my brake situation last night. I started thinking about the last Ecors race in 2010 and my brakes acted exactly the same then. The reason was the bolts that hold the caliper on had loosened up and let the caliper float around, compressing the pistons in a little. When i tightened the bolts up, everything was back to normal.

Walked out in the garage last night, reached around behind the tire and could move the caliper all around....bolts were about half way backed out Laughing

Another simple fix for the eyesore Very Happy

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:31 pm Reply with quote
Yotaoffroad27
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Cumminsdzl wrote:
Figured out my brake situation last night. I started thinking about the last Ecors race in 2010 and my brakes acted exactly the same then. The reason was the bolts that hold the caliper on had loosened up and let the caliper float around, compressing the pistons in a little. When i tightened the bolts up, everything was back to normal.

Walked out in the garage last night, reached around behind the tire and could move the caliper all around....bolts were about half way backed out Laughing

Another simple fix for the eyesore Very Happy




Kyle Luck's my middle name Jeffries

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